Monday, July 17, 2006

First Days in South Sudan

July 13th.

Began the day in the”hotel” with body guard and a group to greet us and we got to the compound – home of the inspector general a very important man who is giving me protection. It is incredible. It is all straw huts, no electricity, tons of relatives coming and going - Adeui’s grandfather had 30 wives so there is a very big family. Everyone is so warm and friendly. There is a lot of handshaking and the kids are incredibly adorable. They have this one white doll which seems to occupy them without end. The boys are in their blue uniforms on their way to school, though it was just cancelled because the President of South Sudan is coming to town. He is the leader of the SPLA/M (South Sudan Liberation Army/Movement) and also a vice president of Sudan.

There is an outhouse for a bathroom and the men are absolutely forbidden to do any work around the house. The kids bring the water from the river and everyone shakes hands and greets me warmly.

We went into town to see the president and I got special treatment and sat right behind the president. There were four hours of speeches. I am beginning to read Emma’s World – which everyone should reade - and I can see how someone can get caught up in the SPLM cause. Here are some incredible people who are hungry to learn and have been suffering through a civil war for decades and many have become soldiers and unable to get their education. They have been oppressed by the Arabs in the North and do not want to be subject to Sharia – Islamic law. There are agreements which were brokered by the Americans – and thus they love America and even George Bush – and in the agreements (CPA) the oil revenue is supposed to be split 50/50 between the north and south. Fro what I understand, Chevron is taking 90 % to repay them for development and The north is getting the remainder. Actually the south is getting a little bit, but all the oil wells are in the south. This will be an issue when the CPA expires and the south will have a referendum – the first vote ever in Sudan – to decide whether to stay united with the north as one country to for independence. The issues are whether to vote for separation or unity after the CPA expires in five years. A lot depends on how the north abides by the CPA –comprehensive peace agreement. If they do not abide to the letter, then the people will probably vote for independence. The problems still to be solved is that most people cannot read, so how can they vote? And how will they react to voting for the first time?

Then there were women speakers talking who were talking about women’s rights which should be an interesting battle when it happens. The modern woman as opposed to the traditional Sudanese woman. There will be intense generation gaps. Also, they talked about their opposition to the LRA which has caused many atrocities to the southern Sudanese. They helped Khartoum in their fight with the south. Now there are peace talks in Juba – where I will be in a few days. More on women’s rights later. For now, just remember cows. It’s all about the cows.

I believe that if the south votes for independence, then the north will attack because of the oil. I am afraid that the only thing to do is for the south to guarantee the north a portion – 50% of the oil revenue even if it is all in south.
This is complex, but I really hope that the peace keeps going so that they can build roads, hospitals, schools, and become self sufficient.

Many people spoke and spoke – the commissioner and the governor to name a few. Some spoke English, some Arabic and some Dinka.

Back at the compound - People just came and visited and we ate and they brought me beer and it is incredible to see the importance of family and I hope that won’t be lost when they modernize. There are such beautiful things about this culture that I hope will not be lost when modernity comes. They are such gentle people and treat guests like kings. Though quite interestingly, the Dinka have never had a king – they ruled by a confederation of clans who somehow worked things out. Other tribes have had kings.

Slept in a hut until 10:30 and now I am refreshed. ….last night issue about me going out to bar…argument………….saw the monkey this morning…..

More to come………

-_______________

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