THe first of three long posts - still in Juba
July 29th mixed in with some rushed later writing.
The town prepares for the one year celebration of the death of the leader of the rebellion and father of the country Dr. John Garang. There are people coming from all over to pray for him and there is no work next Mon, Tuesday, and Wednesday. Juba is the capital of South Sudan and I was given the keys to an SUV to drive through town – back from the internet café whose computers would not allow me to check my email. Though Naples, Italy is most insane place that I have ever driven, especially since they consider traffic lights to be mere decorations and they bump you instead of honking if you stop……driving in South Sudan has no element of breaking the rules. There simply are none. No traffic lights, let alone stop signs – or any signs for that matter…Streets have no names and none are paved…..they are contoured like the ocean during a storm and driving involves navigating holes, dips, 45 degree angles and pedestrians. I think that cars have the right of way, but there are no markings or sidewalks to alert you as to where the street ends or begins. You can see signs of a city that has been neglected, but Havana seems like a modern metropolis compared to Juba. Seeing a city ravaged by 22 years of war is quite mind-numbing. The land where time stopped. The dust is stifling – since all the roads are dirt and well, everything is dirt. Blowing one’s nose at the end of the day is quite an experience.
I have felt a bit like a prisoner at the Uncle’s compound. There were no cars available today and I was trapped. I just read all day. Remember , I can not go out alone. In the evening, went out with Aduei’s brother and friends to a local dive. We walked for a few miles in the pitch black darkness through the stenches of the town. It is amazing that they can navigate in pure darkness. No street lights. We got to the bar and I met a bunch of his friends. It was interesting to see him out of the environment of the elders. He is a player and will drink beer here, but never in front of the family. That is reserved for married men with responsibilities. I had a curfew – when the gates are locked and we cannot bring any outsiders in with us. It is sometimes hard for me to comprehend that I am sleeping in the room next to one of the most powerful men in Sudan and someone who was close to Dr. John Garang. It is told that when Garang finally left the bush to talk peace, Uncle as with him.
I am so concerned that the money will not be distributed to the people. The war heroes are enjoying their peace and are reaping personal benefits – in jobs, connections and money. I went out last night with Aduei’s sister, friend, and we met the Advocate for the Governor – he is a well educated fascinating man, but we spent a half month’s salary for an average Sudanese family on dinner. There is a history of this in Africa where Nigeria is oil rich and I think that over 95% of the oil revenue is helping less than 5% of the population. South Sudan may be overconfident – they are rich in minerals and oil…..but will they build the roads and provide free education for all – and not limit it to the elite?
There is talk of democracy and as I’ve mentioned, the CPA (Comprehensive Peace Agreement) contains wording taking directly from the US Constitution. But for now, it is being stressed that the SPLM must remain strong and unified – not to be divided by tribal differences. The President, Salvia Kiri is a military leader, and I’m not sure there’s any talk about having more than one political party. In five years, when they people vote whether to secede from Sudan or remain united may be the time when there will be two parties – or two factions of one party – one for secession and one for unity. Once again, the key will be education, so that the 15% who can read will not make all the decisions. There is no way that the South will vote for unity. I’ll bet my retirement fund on this (oh yeah, I used that to fund this trip).
Random thought: synergy – sometimes two seemingly or previously unrelated products become associated with one another. The alarm clock and the radio – and the phone and the camera, as just two examples. Here it is the flashlight that is merged with other products. Cell phones have flash lights beaming from the tops, cigarette lighters, when used upside down have flashlights. It makes sense in a county will very little light at night.
The skies are incredible. There are rainbows around the sun, a wall of a rainstorm surrounded by bright sunshine, rain and sun always mixing together and bending light in the most wondrous ways.
Is anyone really reading this babble? Sorry not much to report on the school until I head up to Bor and Malek, but the connections I am making here will make my life easier.
Talked to someone today who asked me what tribe I am from…they cannot believe that America does not have tribes……then I began to think……do we? Then I realized he meant am I Democrat or Republican. He assumed those were the two major tribes.
Note to self – bring antibiotic cream, Band Aids, Advil, bug spray, anti itch cream, and easy books to read…………for the Sudanese……..Actually, bring any medicine.
Met another kid who has no memory of his parents and has been in the refugee camps his whole life. He has just returned to Sudan and will not visit his parents until he has gifts to give them. He is ashamed to show up empty handed.
I am so tempted to take any money I have and give it to any person with a story..but I guess I have to open the school to teach them to fish instead of giving the few fish I have…..This sounds like one of those Save the Children ads, but for many of the people $500 can make a difference in their life. It can pay for a year in school or necessary medical treatment.
Luck – there are so many Lost Boys here who were with Aduei in the refugee camps. It has been a great reunion. They all waited for their names to come up on a list. Aduei was lucky. Others waited for years and years. They checked the lists everyday, only to hear that their name was not on it or that it was lost. How different their lives would be had they been resettled in Australia, Canada or the US.
Uncle is still sick and we cannot leave Juba until he gives the okay and sets up the rest of the trip. No prob, the Sultan of Malek is here and we are getting along quite well. I hope I have a good photo of him………grey hair, thin, and the most intense deep set eyes and high cheekbones – with a gentleness, yet the history of a battle tested soldier.
Everyone has been a soldier here. Everyone has lived in the bush. Everyone has seen more death than I will see in a lifetime. I think they are coming out of a coma, a numbness.
As people get to know me they are admitting that Southern Sudan should secede after the five year interim period. At first they waffled and said lets’ see what the North does.
I am learning to just sit…….there is time……….to sit….and sit…..and sit…….and sit………
It is very hot here.
I still feel that the North will never let the south secede with all the oil and will try to fund various tribes to create war among the southerners as they have done in the past. Getting past the tribal rivalries will be the greatest challenge. Until they can see themselves as south Sudanese and not Dinka or Nuer, this will always be a timber box ready to be lit. (is that what it’s called – a “timber box?”)
Another problem is that the referendum requires the ability to read and over 80 percent of South Sudan is illiterate. Even those who speak English cannot read of write. And democracy is such an abstract term. I do not believe that the leadership is strong enough or bipartisan enough to carry it through It is interesting, if you read Emma’s War, you may not know that Riek Macher is a vice president of Sudan. This was done in an effort to make peace between the Dinka and the Nuer.
Electricity has been turned off and the fight to the mosquito nets is happening.not much power on this machine……..more tomorrow………someday, will I eat anything but goat?
Next morning – okay, I’m so clever. I got inside the mosquito net and killed the one mosquito that was lingering inside. I woke up to 20 bites on my hand. I slept with my hand up against the net and the mosquitoes got me from the outside.
I think I had chicken today, though I would feel more confident if there was a wing in sight. Speaking of wings, watching the eagles soar and then dive to find their prey is something I can do all day.
Went to the big celebration of the one year anniversary of Dr. John Garang – security was tight – it lasted for six hours and I somehow got a VIP pass and sat in the second row – not far from the speakers. Everyone spoke about John Garang – references to George Washington and Martin Luther King……also met with a US State Dept official and a US congressman who was here as part of a delegation. We said we would be in touch when I got back to the US. Garang’s wife and daughter spoke as did an incredible elder.
At the compound again and have not left in a few days…fever is gone and ready to go out……not much food around here…..Have been spending a lot of time with Deng, Aduei’s deaf brother. …it’s great –we have no language barrier……I am teaching him to type and he is very bright. I think I may have said that already. Well, Deng deserves two mentions.
I feel like a doctor here – everyone comes to me with every ailment. There is not even a basic understanding of health care here beyond prayers. No medicines and everyone shares everything and shakes hands constantly. They will blow their nose with their hand and shake your hand……it is so sad the lack of basic understanding and services. Everyone is getting sick….There is always someone with malaria or a fever or a cold…….The sanitary conditions are beyond anything I could have imagined. The Nile water is cloudy and I don’t think my filter works well enough for it – it might be what go me sick……
It is incredible to be surrounded by war heroes from the 22 years of fighting in the bush. The stories of a national struggle from their point of view is enlightening and their hatred for the Arabs in northern Sudan is intense. I have had very little information about the situation in Lebanon and Israel and have heard only bits and pieces, but they all are incredibly supportive of Israel. Their hatred to Arabs – after years of fighting and taken into slavery……..I am still in Juba and this is disjointed – I am typing this in the car………..Uncle is still sick and is being sent to Nairobi for medical treatment. Today, people came from various places and tribes…..i can’t see a thing with the sun beaming down……but people came from different tribes to pary for his health – lots of priests………He wants to talk to me later – once we have our talk, I will be free to head up to Bor and finally to Malek. Fortunately, I know the Sultan of Malek, so I think that all will go well.
I am saving this onto a thumb drive and hopefully will be able to get to one of the ministries and get on a computer………Sorry if the chronology is a bit messed …..
– these are not ideal conditions…..the car keeps hitting huge potholes and I’m not sure what keys I’m hitting, but I want to get something in writing.
Surprise….got driven to the best internet café in Juba – called WOW…….and just we entered we got a call that Uncle was calling for us…and we “hurried” home only to be left waiting and waiting and waiting….it seems that he wants us here, but there are all sorts of government ministers and generals here that must meet with him to decide who is in charge of what while he is gone…….
He has a nasty live-in mistress who nobody likes. Not even Deng. She has ignored us, as she ignores his entire family. We have had no food here and need to go out and find some food when we can………I think I shall begin to lose weight……..she has four servants who have orders to help anyone but her. I am hungry and can’t leave the compound until we have our audience. This is all a bit surreal. ………..it’s getting curiouser and curiouser every minute………I want to get on the boat to Bor already…..i want to see crocodiles and then make plans for the best school South Sudan has ever seen. I lie down and dream about what it will be like. How it will have a mixture of local and international teachers – young, dedicated, and adventurous teachers who are willing to live in Malek. I think about how we can make academics exciting and innovative – and teach critical thinking skills without sacrificing the math/science/engineering skills that are so badly needed. I think about teaching about the South Sudanese constitution and making them able to empower themselves……….and more……….
The town prepares for the one year celebration of the death of the leader of the rebellion and father of the country Dr. John Garang. There are people coming from all over to pray for him and there is no work next Mon, Tuesday, and Wednesday. Juba is the capital of South Sudan and I was given the keys to an SUV to drive through town – back from the internet café whose computers would not allow me to check my email. Though Naples, Italy is most insane place that I have ever driven, especially since they consider traffic lights to be mere decorations and they bump you instead of honking if you stop……driving in South Sudan has no element of breaking the rules. There simply are none. No traffic lights, let alone stop signs – or any signs for that matter…Streets have no names and none are paved…..they are contoured like the ocean during a storm and driving involves navigating holes, dips, 45 degree angles and pedestrians. I think that cars have the right of way, but there are no markings or sidewalks to alert you as to where the street ends or begins. You can see signs of a city that has been neglected, but Havana seems like a modern metropolis compared to Juba. Seeing a city ravaged by 22 years of war is quite mind-numbing. The land where time stopped. The dust is stifling – since all the roads are dirt and well, everything is dirt. Blowing one’s nose at the end of the day is quite an experience.
I have felt a bit like a prisoner at the Uncle’s compound. There were no cars available today and I was trapped. I just read all day. Remember , I can not go out alone. In the evening, went out with Aduei’s brother and friends to a local dive. We walked for a few miles in the pitch black darkness through the stenches of the town. It is amazing that they can navigate in pure darkness. No street lights. We got to the bar and I met a bunch of his friends. It was interesting to see him out of the environment of the elders. He is a player and will drink beer here, but never in front of the family. That is reserved for married men with responsibilities. I had a curfew – when the gates are locked and we cannot bring any outsiders in with us. It is sometimes hard for me to comprehend that I am sleeping in the room next to one of the most powerful men in Sudan and someone who was close to Dr. John Garang. It is told that when Garang finally left the bush to talk peace, Uncle as with him.
I am so concerned that the money will not be distributed to the people. The war heroes are enjoying their peace and are reaping personal benefits – in jobs, connections and money. I went out last night with Aduei’s sister, friend, and we met the Advocate for the Governor – he is a well educated fascinating man, but we spent a half month’s salary for an average Sudanese family on dinner. There is a history of this in Africa where Nigeria is oil rich and I think that over 95% of the oil revenue is helping less than 5% of the population. South Sudan may be overconfident – they are rich in minerals and oil…..but will they build the roads and provide free education for all – and not limit it to the elite?
There is talk of democracy and as I’ve mentioned, the CPA (Comprehensive Peace Agreement) contains wording taking directly from the US Constitution. But for now, it is being stressed that the SPLM must remain strong and unified – not to be divided by tribal differences. The President, Salvia Kiri is a military leader, and I’m not sure there’s any talk about having more than one political party. In five years, when they people vote whether to secede from Sudan or remain united may be the time when there will be two parties – or two factions of one party – one for secession and one for unity. Once again, the key will be education, so that the 15% who can read will not make all the decisions. There is no way that the South will vote for unity. I’ll bet my retirement fund on this (oh yeah, I used that to fund this trip).
Random thought: synergy – sometimes two seemingly or previously unrelated products become associated with one another. The alarm clock and the radio – and the phone and the camera, as just two examples. Here it is the flashlight that is merged with other products. Cell phones have flash lights beaming from the tops, cigarette lighters, when used upside down have flashlights. It makes sense in a county will very little light at night.
The skies are incredible. There are rainbows around the sun, a wall of a rainstorm surrounded by bright sunshine, rain and sun always mixing together and bending light in the most wondrous ways.
Is anyone really reading this babble? Sorry not much to report on the school until I head up to Bor and Malek, but the connections I am making here will make my life easier.
Talked to someone today who asked me what tribe I am from…they cannot believe that America does not have tribes……then I began to think……do we? Then I realized he meant am I Democrat or Republican. He assumed those were the two major tribes.
Note to self – bring antibiotic cream, Band Aids, Advil, bug spray, anti itch cream, and easy books to read…………for the Sudanese……..Actually, bring any medicine.
Met another kid who has no memory of his parents and has been in the refugee camps his whole life. He has just returned to Sudan and will not visit his parents until he has gifts to give them. He is ashamed to show up empty handed.
I am so tempted to take any money I have and give it to any person with a story..but I guess I have to open the school to teach them to fish instead of giving the few fish I have…..This sounds like one of those Save the Children ads, but for many of the people $500 can make a difference in their life. It can pay for a year in school or necessary medical treatment.
Luck – there are so many Lost Boys here who were with Aduei in the refugee camps. It has been a great reunion. They all waited for their names to come up on a list. Aduei was lucky. Others waited for years and years. They checked the lists everyday, only to hear that their name was not on it or that it was lost. How different their lives would be had they been resettled in Australia, Canada or the US.
Uncle is still sick and we cannot leave Juba until he gives the okay and sets up the rest of the trip. No prob, the Sultan of Malek is here and we are getting along quite well. I hope I have a good photo of him………grey hair, thin, and the most intense deep set eyes and high cheekbones – with a gentleness, yet the history of a battle tested soldier.
Everyone has been a soldier here. Everyone has lived in the bush. Everyone has seen more death than I will see in a lifetime. I think they are coming out of a coma, a numbness.
As people get to know me they are admitting that Southern Sudan should secede after the five year interim period. At first they waffled and said lets’ see what the North does.
I am learning to just sit…….there is time……….to sit….and sit…..and sit…….and sit………
It is very hot here.
I still feel that the North will never let the south secede with all the oil and will try to fund various tribes to create war among the southerners as they have done in the past. Getting past the tribal rivalries will be the greatest challenge. Until they can see themselves as south Sudanese and not Dinka or Nuer, this will always be a timber box ready to be lit. (is that what it’s called – a “timber box?”)
Another problem is that the referendum requires the ability to read and over 80 percent of South Sudan is illiterate. Even those who speak English cannot read of write. And democracy is such an abstract term. I do not believe that the leadership is strong enough or bipartisan enough to carry it through It is interesting, if you read Emma’s War, you may not know that Riek Macher is a vice president of Sudan. This was done in an effort to make peace between the Dinka and the Nuer.
Electricity has been turned off and the fight to the mosquito nets is happening.not much power on this machine……..more tomorrow………someday, will I eat anything but goat?
Next morning – okay, I’m so clever. I got inside the mosquito net and killed the one mosquito that was lingering inside. I woke up to 20 bites on my hand. I slept with my hand up against the net and the mosquitoes got me from the outside.
I think I had chicken today, though I would feel more confident if there was a wing in sight. Speaking of wings, watching the eagles soar and then dive to find their prey is something I can do all day.
Went to the big celebration of the one year anniversary of Dr. John Garang – security was tight – it lasted for six hours and I somehow got a VIP pass and sat in the second row – not far from the speakers. Everyone spoke about John Garang – references to George Washington and Martin Luther King……also met with a US State Dept official and a US congressman who was here as part of a delegation. We said we would be in touch when I got back to the US. Garang’s wife and daughter spoke as did an incredible elder.
At the compound again and have not left in a few days…fever is gone and ready to go out……not much food around here…..Have been spending a lot of time with Deng, Aduei’s deaf brother. …it’s great –we have no language barrier……I am teaching him to type and he is very bright. I think I may have said that already. Well, Deng deserves two mentions.
I feel like a doctor here – everyone comes to me with every ailment. There is not even a basic understanding of health care here beyond prayers. No medicines and everyone shares everything and shakes hands constantly. They will blow their nose with their hand and shake your hand……it is so sad the lack of basic understanding and services. Everyone is getting sick….There is always someone with malaria or a fever or a cold…….The sanitary conditions are beyond anything I could have imagined. The Nile water is cloudy and I don’t think my filter works well enough for it – it might be what go me sick……
It is incredible to be surrounded by war heroes from the 22 years of fighting in the bush. The stories of a national struggle from their point of view is enlightening and their hatred for the Arabs in northern Sudan is intense. I have had very little information about the situation in Lebanon and Israel and have heard only bits and pieces, but they all are incredibly supportive of Israel. Their hatred to Arabs – after years of fighting and taken into slavery……..I am still in Juba and this is disjointed – I am typing this in the car………..Uncle is still sick and is being sent to Nairobi for medical treatment. Today, people came from various places and tribes…..i can’t see a thing with the sun beaming down……but people came from different tribes to pary for his health – lots of priests………He wants to talk to me later – once we have our talk, I will be free to head up to Bor and finally to Malek. Fortunately, I know the Sultan of Malek, so I think that all will go well.
I am saving this onto a thumb drive and hopefully will be able to get to one of the ministries and get on a computer………Sorry if the chronology is a bit messed …..
– these are not ideal conditions…..the car keeps hitting huge potholes and I’m not sure what keys I’m hitting, but I want to get something in writing.
Surprise….got driven to the best internet café in Juba – called WOW…….and just we entered we got a call that Uncle was calling for us…and we “hurried” home only to be left waiting and waiting and waiting….it seems that he wants us here, but there are all sorts of government ministers and generals here that must meet with him to decide who is in charge of what while he is gone…….
He has a nasty live-in mistress who nobody likes. Not even Deng. She has ignored us, as she ignores his entire family. We have had no food here and need to go out and find some food when we can………I think I shall begin to lose weight……..she has four servants who have orders to help anyone but her. I am hungry and can’t leave the compound until we have our audience. This is all a bit surreal. ………..it’s getting curiouser and curiouser every minute………I want to get on the boat to Bor already…..i want to see crocodiles and then make plans for the best school South Sudan has ever seen. I lie down and dream about what it will be like. How it will have a mixture of local and international teachers – young, dedicated, and adventurous teachers who are willing to live in Malek. I think about how we can make academics exciting and innovative – and teach critical thinking skills without sacrificing the math/science/engineering skills that are so badly needed. I think about teaching about the South Sudanese constitution and making them able to empower themselves……….and more……….
posted by Charly at 3:45 AM
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