Mamer Dit Abot - My Dinka Name
What follows is an uneditied compilation of rambling written whenever i could use the computer...........
July 23, 2006
Mamel Dit Abot
Sitting at the compound and realizing how hard it is to write with the sun in the background and the kids all wanting me to take a picture with built-in camera. They are amazed at how fast I type and that I can type without looking. I have been writing things down in my notebook and I am just going to copy them onto this blog. So here goes:
Wait, wait, not so fast….forgot to mention that I am sitting in the compound amidst the remnants of yesterday’s feast. I was woken up at about 5 am to witness the slaughtering of the bull. Protected by my drowsiness, I was sort-of able to watch – I will always remember the sound of the bull as the axe went into his neck and someone took a knife to slit his throat. I kept getting flashbacks of the memorable scene in Apocalypse Now when Martin Sheen is about to kill Kurtz (Brando) and the Doors’ “The End” swells in the background and Sheen is soaked in sweat and he approaches Brando with his sword and Coppola shows us the slaugerting of a bull when the lyrics say: I’m going to kill you” and then the music builds up and we see a frenzy of blood as the bull is killed……okay enough…………the point is that bull was slaughtered and this was followed by a procession of people coming to prepare for the feast. About 40 women were cooking all sorts of dishes and the there was not a part from the bull which was not used for these dishes. As I sit here now, I am looking at the flies attacking the skin of the bull which is stretched out on the ground – staked like a tent (I could say “steaked” but that would really be anawful pun)……soon to made into some of leather product……..
Back to yesterday…….A tent was put up, the church brought chairs and by 5pm the speeches began. Some focused on the return of Aduei and how she must not forget her Dinka heritage. There was fear by some of the people that I was her husband. This was corrected in the first speech. The themes surrounding Aduei were about how the Dinka in America – the lost boys and girls – must come back to Sudan to help rebuild it. They must bring what is good, but not the bad things from America. The Dinka ways must be respected. I’m not sure how prepared people are for the changes that will happen with the arrival of westernized Dinka. I’m not sure that any woman who has lived in the West will be able to return to the subservient and obedient lifestyle of a Dinka woman. It will be interesting to see how the men who return feel about the Dinka way where they are kings and are waited on and pampered by their women.
The speeches went on – the priest, some high generals who were leaders in the SPLA , and some relatives. Then Aduei spoke and I spoke. I’m getting used to giving these speeches here. It was well received. My first line after saying “good afternoon” in Dinka was “I am not here to marry a Dinka girl.” Most of this is on tape – or at least the beginning.
Note of rechargeable batteries – My camera, Aduei’s video camera, my computer and almost any electronic thing I have here has a rechargeable battery. I have always thought that rechargeable batteries were great. The only problem with them is that they require easy access to electricity in order for them to be useful. Here, when the battery runs out, it may be days until the “charger shop” – has an empty socket for us to plug into as their generator hums away. I have been more fortunate than most Sudanese in that Abot, Aduei’s childhood friend and now a friend of mine has taken me to the CRS compound where they electricity during certain periods of the day, as well as internet.
Back to the festivities – so there were about a hundred or one fifty here as the speeches continued. I was blessed by the priests and told that god is watching me and protecting me in my mission to build a free school in Sudan. Everyone seems to think that it is amazing and brave that I am trying to do this project on my own and that I have come here without the help of an agency. The speeches were embarrassing to me as they praised me over and over again about the school, coming from America to Sudan, and the father spoke about how I have embraced their culture. I have chosen to eat with my hands – as they do – and sleep in the huts and take cold showers with the bucket….and on and on and on….
The Big Announcement:
So the father was speaking and they called me up and announced that as of today I shall be known as Mamer Dit Abot (ma – MER deet a-BOT) – the big red and white bull. Many names are given based on where you were born or what happened on that day. I am named after the red and white bull who was slaughtered in my honor. At church this morning (yes, I went again to respect the mom who is very religious), I was greeted by all as Mamer Dit………..From Kawaja to Chaaaaly to Mamer Dit………..Oh, and Abot is the family’s last name and they have accepted me into their family/clan.
Should I change the name of the website to Mamer Dit Abot in Sudan?
Then we ate and ated and drank and drank. Finally, I recorded some Dinka songs that the guys were singing – a bit alcohol influenced, but quite good nonetheless. Sort of like a blues spiritual mixed with a sailor’s song.
Beer
One of the things the south fought against the the Sharia Moslem law of the north. It was imposed on the whole country and alcohol was prohibited. With the CPA – the peace agreement, there is no Sharia law in the south and there is now beer from Uganda. Beer has become a status symbol and for the most part, drunk by people who have money. These are the same people who can maybe afford a motorcycle. So let’s put this formula together – beer + motorcycle + no street lamps + treacherous roads + no eye gasses = you should walk on the side of the road with care.
Beer is also thought of as something that will help you gain weight. It is quite obvious why a country that has just come out of decades of war with a few famines thrown in would not sell diet sodas. Fatty foods are preferred, especially goat. In the USA, anyone can get fat. It actually take work to stay slim. Everyone is slim here and having a little bulk is desirable. On some packages of food – such as Blue Bonnet – the margarine that doesn’t need to be refrigeration, it proudly brags about its fat content.
I have just gone inside as it is pouring outside . When it rains, it rains……..rivers form in the clay and everyone finds a place to get covered. There are no raincoats here. In about 15 minutes, the sun will come out, the temperature will be cool and life will be good.
Deng
Deng is Aduei’s older brother who has been deaf and dumb since he had meningitis when he was 3. He is the most caring, sensitive guy. He took me to an Ethiopian restaurant yesterday. Everyone knows him and says hello to him. It seems like everyone has figured out how to communicate with him. For me it was interesting walking with him as I realized how much I depend on my hearing – especially listening for the sounds of vehicles in the road – and how he most somehow compensate by walking as one drives – checking mirrors, or in his case, turning around and watching other people. He is so protective of me and notices everything. We can sit and have a conversation with sign language that I just make up as I go along. Who knows if we really understand each other? All I know that we felt close and laughed together as we signed away……..
Schools
I was looking at the kids’ notebooks and was impressed with their use of the English language. Sentences begin: “In light of the revolutionary changes brought on by the implementation of ….” I asked the kids what this all means and they could not tell me. They could repeat the sentences by heart and do well on a test, but they only understood about a quarter of what was written. The teacher just writes on the board and the kids copy it. I can’t wait to have my own school where kids will be taught to think and discuss what is being learned.
Fisher Price and Comments about the White Doll
It’s great to watch the kids stay occupied with sticks, plastic bottles, leaves, rocks, socks, etc. They seem more content than American kids with their slew of Fisher Price toys and videos to watch.
The Doll – It turns out that Aduei bought the doll and really didn’t think about the color. There are no black dolls here in Africa. Strange, but true. Wherever they get them from, only has white dolls. Lori Taylor has said that she will be sending some black dolls.
In the church – Jesus is also the blonde haired blue eyed version. I don’t get it.
Kids are still fascinated by the hair on my legs, but even more by my ability to wiggle my nose. I haven’t lost a pound here, but I am getting darker which is quite slimming, they say……..everywhere I go, people feed me whatever they have. I must eat or I face the risk of insulting them…..and so I eat………..
Sometimes I think that Christianity is more about being the Un-Islam, as about love of Christ. They really hate the Arabs because of the years of domination by the Arab/Moslem north. The Arabs used to steal children and keep them as slaves. This was very common. They love Israel. As they say in the Middle East – and probably in other places too – the enemy of my enemy is my friend. They are amazingly impressed that I was in the Israel army in the Gaza Strip. Hmmmm
The Globe – Can someone please explain this to me? There are two questions that I have been asking teachers to explain to me for years. The first one was how the moon affects the tides and I think that I got the answer to that. The other one is that I cannot understand how people at the equator are not standing sideways and people in the southern hemisphere walking upside down. Sure, somewhere in there, we must subtract 23 and a half degrees for the tilt of the earth….and the earth is big so the curve is very slight….but still. It does not make sense to me.
Another question: the toilets here are a hole in the ground. Why don’t they put a chair with a hole in it to sit in above the hole? I think that reading in the can is the one cultural item that should be brought from America. I think that it will promote literacy.
Democracy – I worry that it will not come so smoothly. There is a regimented hierarchy here – from the concept to elders (one always gives a seat to an elder – I like being old here – I also get to sit shotgun when I am in a car). I am now typing away and hoping that I will be able to get to an Internet café to post this before I leave for Juba tomorrow. Abot says to bring the computer. Others say that it may get ruined by the water splashing from the Nile…….Democracy – it seems that there is a military hierarchy and financial one as well. People in a position in power have no trouble treating those below them like shit. At the compound there is a man who has been assigned by the army to do tasks. He is a former mathematics teacher and is very bright, though is an alcoholic and always looking for money for smokes. Anyway, he sleeps in the kitchen or outside and treated like a slave in some ways………..
Not everyone loves everyone.
SO as I get to know everyone better, I can now differentiate between Dinka and non-Dinka. Ugandan and Ethiopian and Kenyan and Sudanese. And then the usual talk begins – the Kenyan doesn’t like the Dinka. The Dinka may not trust the Ugandan…..all black, but very different.
In church today, I was brought to the front and treated once more like a special guest. I know that I am really accepted when they ignore me. I don’t know if my skin color will ever allow that.
Small change:
In Yei, it is almost impossible to break a bill over 1000 Ugandan shillings (about 50 cents). No one has change. They will often give you a slip with credit or just refuse the sail
Random thoughts
I think of the Star Trek primary directive, which was not to interfere with the culture. Actually I think of it quite often.
Heard a story about a man who was cheating on his wife. So, she took a lover. She got arrested for this and after she served her time, she was sent home to be with her husband. She was not happy and was not being the good wife that she should have been. The husband went to the police who were coming with him to beat her up when the husband’s motorcycle crashed. He died. End of story.
Another story. A man came in here with a gun the other morning looking for the family troublemaker who was sleeping with his wife……….
Genital mutilation is not practiced in southern Sudan, though it is in the North. I was speaking with an Ethiopian man who thought it was quite natural, though some people in the big city – Addis – are not doing it anymore. He also talked about how men don’t want to wait for a women to be moist and aroused, so, in some cultures, women are forced to put unripe bananas up their vaginas to stretch it out and make it easier for the man to enter when the women is not ready. I swear, I don’t make these things up. Pretty mind blowing.
Find some foreign aid workers who want to help with the water system and solar power for the school.
The stories of each and every person here is incredible. I cannot blame them for wanting to enjoy life. Each day people are being united with their families. Every person has seen scores of people get killed. – by bullets, famine, disease. Towns were destroyed, there were no markets and very little food. These are the good times. So many kids were sent away from the fighting to refugee camps with the hope that they would get an education. Aduei and Abot are examples. It worked for them, but they often had to march hundreds of miles to new settings – as the political climate changed – and like most, did not see their parents for over a decade – many not knowing who was alive and who was not.
A bit later in the afternoon and Abot has just picked me up. I will not take the computer – not into the whole water swishing into the boat thing – so I will be out of touch for about a week. Leaving for Juba in the morning and will stay with Aduei’s uncle, the chief of police…..then to do the real work in planning the school. I will try to upload some photos………hopefully it will work………ciao….
July 23, 2006
Mamel Dit Abot
Sitting at the compound and realizing how hard it is to write with the sun in the background and the kids all wanting me to take a picture with built-in camera. They are amazed at how fast I type and that I can type without looking. I have been writing things down in my notebook and I am just going to copy them onto this blog. So here goes:
Wait, wait, not so fast….forgot to mention that I am sitting in the compound amidst the remnants of yesterday’s feast. I was woken up at about 5 am to witness the slaughtering of the bull. Protected by my drowsiness, I was sort-of able to watch – I will always remember the sound of the bull as the axe went into his neck and someone took a knife to slit his throat. I kept getting flashbacks of the memorable scene in Apocalypse Now when Martin Sheen is about to kill Kurtz (Brando) and the Doors’ “The End” swells in the background and Sheen is soaked in sweat and he approaches Brando with his sword and Coppola shows us the slaugerting of a bull when the lyrics say: I’m going to kill you” and then the music builds up and we see a frenzy of blood as the bull is killed……okay enough…………the point is that bull was slaughtered and this was followed by a procession of people coming to prepare for the feast. About 40 women were cooking all sorts of dishes and the there was not a part from the bull which was not used for these dishes. As I sit here now, I am looking at the flies attacking the skin of the bull which is stretched out on the ground – staked like a tent (I could say “steaked” but that would really be anawful pun)……soon to made into some of leather product……..
Back to yesterday…….A tent was put up, the church brought chairs and by 5pm the speeches began. Some focused on the return of Aduei and how she must not forget her Dinka heritage. There was fear by some of the people that I was her husband. This was corrected in the first speech. The themes surrounding Aduei were about how the Dinka in America – the lost boys and girls – must come back to Sudan to help rebuild it. They must bring what is good, but not the bad things from America. The Dinka ways must be respected. I’m not sure how prepared people are for the changes that will happen with the arrival of westernized Dinka. I’m not sure that any woman who has lived in the West will be able to return to the subservient and obedient lifestyle of a Dinka woman. It will be interesting to see how the men who return feel about the Dinka way where they are kings and are waited on and pampered by their women.
The speeches went on – the priest, some high generals who were leaders in the SPLA , and some relatives. Then Aduei spoke and I spoke. I’m getting used to giving these speeches here. It was well received. My first line after saying “good afternoon” in Dinka was “I am not here to marry a Dinka girl.” Most of this is on tape – or at least the beginning.
Note of rechargeable batteries – My camera, Aduei’s video camera, my computer and almost any electronic thing I have here has a rechargeable battery. I have always thought that rechargeable batteries were great. The only problem with them is that they require easy access to electricity in order for them to be useful. Here, when the battery runs out, it may be days until the “charger shop” – has an empty socket for us to plug into as their generator hums away. I have been more fortunate than most Sudanese in that Abot, Aduei’s childhood friend and now a friend of mine has taken me to the CRS compound where they electricity during certain periods of the day, as well as internet.
Back to the festivities – so there were about a hundred or one fifty here as the speeches continued. I was blessed by the priests and told that god is watching me and protecting me in my mission to build a free school in Sudan. Everyone seems to think that it is amazing and brave that I am trying to do this project on my own and that I have come here without the help of an agency. The speeches were embarrassing to me as they praised me over and over again about the school, coming from America to Sudan, and the father spoke about how I have embraced their culture. I have chosen to eat with my hands – as they do – and sleep in the huts and take cold showers with the bucket….and on and on and on….
The Big Announcement:
So the father was speaking and they called me up and announced that as of today I shall be known as Mamer Dit Abot (ma – MER deet a-BOT) – the big red and white bull. Many names are given based on where you were born or what happened on that day. I am named after the red and white bull who was slaughtered in my honor. At church this morning (yes, I went again to respect the mom who is very religious), I was greeted by all as Mamer Dit………..From Kawaja to Chaaaaly to Mamer Dit………..Oh, and Abot is the family’s last name and they have accepted me into their family/clan.
Should I change the name of the website to Mamer Dit Abot in Sudan?
Then we ate and ated and drank and drank. Finally, I recorded some Dinka songs that the guys were singing – a bit alcohol influenced, but quite good nonetheless. Sort of like a blues spiritual mixed with a sailor’s song.
Beer
One of the things the south fought against the the Sharia Moslem law of the north. It was imposed on the whole country and alcohol was prohibited. With the CPA – the peace agreement, there is no Sharia law in the south and there is now beer from Uganda. Beer has become a status symbol and for the most part, drunk by people who have money. These are the same people who can maybe afford a motorcycle. So let’s put this formula together – beer + motorcycle + no street lamps + treacherous roads + no eye gasses = you should walk on the side of the road with care.
Beer is also thought of as something that will help you gain weight. It is quite obvious why a country that has just come out of decades of war with a few famines thrown in would not sell diet sodas. Fatty foods are preferred, especially goat. In the USA, anyone can get fat. It actually take work to stay slim. Everyone is slim here and having a little bulk is desirable. On some packages of food – such as Blue Bonnet – the margarine that doesn’t need to be refrigeration, it proudly brags about its fat content.
I have just gone inside as it is pouring outside . When it rains, it rains……..rivers form in the clay and everyone finds a place to get covered. There are no raincoats here. In about 15 minutes, the sun will come out, the temperature will be cool and life will be good.
Deng
Deng is Aduei’s older brother who has been deaf and dumb since he had meningitis when he was 3. He is the most caring, sensitive guy. He took me to an Ethiopian restaurant yesterday. Everyone knows him and says hello to him. It seems like everyone has figured out how to communicate with him. For me it was interesting walking with him as I realized how much I depend on my hearing – especially listening for the sounds of vehicles in the road – and how he most somehow compensate by walking as one drives – checking mirrors, or in his case, turning around and watching other people. He is so protective of me and notices everything. We can sit and have a conversation with sign language that I just make up as I go along. Who knows if we really understand each other? All I know that we felt close and laughed together as we signed away……..
Schools
I was looking at the kids’ notebooks and was impressed with their use of the English language. Sentences begin: “In light of the revolutionary changes brought on by the implementation of ….” I asked the kids what this all means and they could not tell me. They could repeat the sentences by heart and do well on a test, but they only understood about a quarter of what was written. The teacher just writes on the board and the kids copy it. I can’t wait to have my own school where kids will be taught to think and discuss what is being learned.
Fisher Price and Comments about the White Doll
It’s great to watch the kids stay occupied with sticks, plastic bottles, leaves, rocks, socks, etc. They seem more content than American kids with their slew of Fisher Price toys and videos to watch.
The Doll – It turns out that Aduei bought the doll and really didn’t think about the color. There are no black dolls here in Africa. Strange, but true. Wherever they get them from, only has white dolls. Lori Taylor has said that she will be sending some black dolls.
In the church – Jesus is also the blonde haired blue eyed version. I don’t get it.
Kids are still fascinated by the hair on my legs, but even more by my ability to wiggle my nose. I haven’t lost a pound here, but I am getting darker which is quite slimming, they say……..everywhere I go, people feed me whatever they have. I must eat or I face the risk of insulting them…..and so I eat………..
Sometimes I think that Christianity is more about being the Un-Islam, as about love of Christ. They really hate the Arabs because of the years of domination by the Arab/Moslem north. The Arabs used to steal children and keep them as slaves. This was very common. They love Israel. As they say in the Middle East – and probably in other places too – the enemy of my enemy is my friend. They are amazingly impressed that I was in the Israel army in the Gaza Strip. Hmmmm
The Globe – Can someone please explain this to me? There are two questions that I have been asking teachers to explain to me for years. The first one was how the moon affects the tides and I think that I got the answer to that. The other one is that I cannot understand how people at the equator are not standing sideways and people in the southern hemisphere walking upside down. Sure, somewhere in there, we must subtract 23 and a half degrees for the tilt of the earth….and the earth is big so the curve is very slight….but still. It does not make sense to me.
Another question: the toilets here are a hole in the ground. Why don’t they put a chair with a hole in it to sit in above the hole? I think that reading in the can is the one cultural item that should be brought from America. I think that it will promote literacy.
Democracy – I worry that it will not come so smoothly. There is a regimented hierarchy here – from the concept to elders (one always gives a seat to an elder – I like being old here – I also get to sit shotgun when I am in a car). I am now typing away and hoping that I will be able to get to an Internet café to post this before I leave for Juba tomorrow. Abot says to bring the computer. Others say that it may get ruined by the water splashing from the Nile…….Democracy – it seems that there is a military hierarchy and financial one as well. People in a position in power have no trouble treating those below them like shit. At the compound there is a man who has been assigned by the army to do tasks. He is a former mathematics teacher and is very bright, though is an alcoholic and always looking for money for smokes. Anyway, he sleeps in the kitchen or outside and treated like a slave in some ways………..
Not everyone loves everyone.
SO as I get to know everyone better, I can now differentiate between Dinka and non-Dinka. Ugandan and Ethiopian and Kenyan and Sudanese. And then the usual talk begins – the Kenyan doesn’t like the Dinka. The Dinka may not trust the Ugandan…..all black, but very different.
In church today, I was brought to the front and treated once more like a special guest. I know that I am really accepted when they ignore me. I don’t know if my skin color will ever allow that.
Small change:
In Yei, it is almost impossible to break a bill over 1000 Ugandan shillings (about 50 cents). No one has change. They will often give you a slip with credit or just refuse the sail
Random thoughts
I think of the Star Trek primary directive, which was not to interfere with the culture. Actually I think of it quite often.
Heard a story about a man who was cheating on his wife. So, she took a lover. She got arrested for this and after she served her time, she was sent home to be with her husband. She was not happy and was not being the good wife that she should have been. The husband went to the police who were coming with him to beat her up when the husband’s motorcycle crashed. He died. End of story.
Another story. A man came in here with a gun the other morning looking for the family troublemaker who was sleeping with his wife……….
Genital mutilation is not practiced in southern Sudan, though it is in the North. I was speaking with an Ethiopian man who thought it was quite natural, though some people in the big city – Addis – are not doing it anymore. He also talked about how men don’t want to wait for a women to be moist and aroused, so, in some cultures, women are forced to put unripe bananas up their vaginas to stretch it out and make it easier for the man to enter when the women is not ready. I swear, I don’t make these things up. Pretty mind blowing.
Find some foreign aid workers who want to help with the water system and solar power for the school.
The stories of each and every person here is incredible. I cannot blame them for wanting to enjoy life. Each day people are being united with their families. Every person has seen scores of people get killed. – by bullets, famine, disease. Towns were destroyed, there were no markets and very little food. These are the good times. So many kids were sent away from the fighting to refugee camps with the hope that they would get an education. Aduei and Abot are examples. It worked for them, but they often had to march hundreds of miles to new settings – as the political climate changed – and like most, did not see their parents for over a decade – many not knowing who was alive and who was not.
A bit later in the afternoon and Abot has just picked me up. I will not take the computer – not into the whole water swishing into the boat thing – so I will be out of touch for about a week. Leaving for Juba in the morning and will stay with Aduei’s uncle, the chief of police…..then to do the real work in planning the school. I will try to upload some photos………hopefully it will work………ciao….
posted by Charly at 4:50 AM
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