Got on this website but cannot access any of my email accounts

For some reason i am unable to access any email...not sure when i'll be able to...but keep writing......i will keep trying.....\charly

Finally arrived in Juba - internet too slow for photos

It has been days since I’ve written and so much has happened on so many levels. There is palace intrigue, tales of past sins come to haunt, and so much more. I am an outsider looking in and have often depend on my own observations and the interpretations of my translators – and my interpretations of my the interpretations of the translators. I am a white man from the West making observations – fighting with my own prejudices and western point of view to understand what is going on here. But in some cases, human nature is human naturen and power is power. Abuse of power and corruption are universal concepts, but the cultural context gives it a lvastly different flavor. I am in the midst of the seats of power – closer than I have ever been in America and in this fledgling state state of nation building it is nothing short of mind-blowing for me. Some of the things I will not be able to write in this blog, but I will share things – often in generalities and I will leave names out. I ask you to re-read the section that I quoted from Emma’s War to give some framework to complexitiesof the situation. The old rivalies between tribes, clans, and religions. They color every step of the process of here.

I am sitting on the “porch” of the home of the chief of police for South Sudan. I am minutes from the Nile and frogs jump around here, eating grasshoppers and sucking in flies with their tongues. The weather is warm though nothing like a NYC summer day. It is cloudy and there is a breeze – though the humidity is much higher here than in Yei. I hope to be able to find an internet connection to be able to cut and paste this onto the blog – and if you are reading this, then I have been successful.

But let’s go back to Yei where the bull was slaughtered and Aduei and I were supposed to have left on Monday for Juba. There is much going on in Juba – it is the capital city and the LRA (the Lord’s Resistance Army –the rebels from Uganda) are meeting with the Ugandan gov’t to try to work out a peace agreement. The LRA is looking for a compromise and the gov’t is looking for a surrender. The meetings are done in Juba and have moved to a secret location in the bush – some say to the Congo. But back to Yei – we did not leave until Wedsnesday due to problems that came up.

Every society has its rules around sex and relationships. I guess, we can call this a moral system. But no society has been able to reign in the sexual drive of its citizens and the Dinka are no exception. There were issues with Aduie’s father (let’s call him father for now). The first problem was with his second wife who did not feel she was being treated fairly and she did not show up to the big bull slaughtering party. Aduei, her sister, Agot and the father spent the day at the second wife’s home working out issues with her family. It involved possession of the kids and cows. It seems that this was worked out…..but Wisteria Lane and Peyton Place reared their heads later that evening when the uncle of Father’s child in Australia came to pay a visit. You see, Father had a child with a woman before he was married, when he was a teenager. He was poor then and did not have any cows. He did not care for the women, so he just left her and her son. Her son is now 42 years old and a pastor in Australia and want to be legitimate and have father’s name. The uncle refuses to leave until six cows are paid – If they are not paid then the boy will take the name of the mother’s family – and Dinka men are proud of the number of boys that they have. Aduei and I contributed some money and some arrangement was made to collect the cows from the area in which they are kept. The uncle had gone there before and the keeper of the cows refused to give them up. The uncle stayed a few nights, some more conversations took place and he seemed to be satisfied. For a non-sexual society, there are an awful lot of illegitimate kids running around. Fortunatley, si cows can cure that

In the meantime, I was stranded in Yei – though never alone. If you are a kawaja (white person) and intend to come to South Sudan on your own, make sure that your will is in order before you leave. I wondered why they would not let me go into town on my own, but a few incidents made me realized that I could not walk through town on my own. There are other white folks here, but they are with organizations and do not walk through town. They travel in Toyota Land Cruisers (which look nothing like the ones in America – no leather seats and they are real all terrain vehicles – they rule the roads here. I have counted the number of American cars here and the number is zero. Another interesting driving note – Most of the cars here must come from Uganda where they drive on the left side of the road. Therefore the steering wheel in on the right. In Sudan they drive on the right – like in the USA, but the cars are all right hand steering wheel equipped – a bit disorienting, but the least of the problems here). Most kawajas eat at their compounds and travel with locals as well. I have used public transportation and have been buying food at the street stands. There is always a chance that a drunk or angry person may come after me. For the most part, the Sudanese are extrememly friendly, but it makes a big difference when you are with Sudanese friends. And so I am a fifty year old man who needs permission and an escort to go anywhere. Someone is assigned to me at all times. If is step two feet out of the compound, someone is there in two seconds. If the bodyguard is away, someone else in on duty.

On the road to Juba, our taxi van was stopped a few times. There were adhoc roadblocks set up along the way. In one village, a kid was killed by a car and they were building a speed bump - made from stones covered in mud – to slow down traffic and they were collecting money to pay the workers. In another town the army was concerned about the kawaja’s papers and spoke rudely to Agot, who is an officer in the army. She didn’t like the way she was spoken to – men speak fairly roughly to women. She was not in uniform and he didn’t know who he was messing with. There was some argument and finally they saw that my papers were in order and we moved on. We had to stop once when the luggage fell off the roof of the taxi.

We arrived in Juba and stopped at the gravesite of Dr. John Garange – the leader of the SPLA/M who died a year ago. He is sort of the George Washington of South Sudan. We then hit a traffic jam where a boy was killed in traffic only a few minutes earlier.

Then we arrived at the compound of the chief of police. As we arrived there was already a party going on with all of the top officers of the SPLA. All the leaders – such as the chief of police are all generals in the SPLA and were all part of the rebellion since it started in 1983. They have fought for decades and are now enjoying themselves a bit. They are also in the positions of power and power equals money.

Uncle – let’s call the chief of police uncle. He is Aduei’s mother’s brother. He has this house which is quite luxurious on Sudanese standards. He has a generator and there is electricity from 8pm – midnight. There is also limited running water. He has about five cars, five wives, and many other women. Right now he has a live-in girlfriend (his first wife is in Australia with his kids – but we’ll get to that soon), and their was much palace intrigue here last night. He has been ill and she is a woman who has had three husbands who have all died mysteriously. She is also from another tribe, but seems to have power over men, especially men with power. The golddigger concept was discussed and there were thoughts that she was not doing her best to make sure he got well. Let’s leave it at that for now.

I am meeting general after general – most of them Dinka and most of them from Bor – where this family is from - as was John Garang. It is also where the rebellion began in 1983. There is also some woman who has returned to Sudan after being in exile for many years – she allegedly stole 2.5 dollars allocated for women in Sudan. She was cleared of all charges. Connections. …..oh there is so much more……….

There is children here being united with their father after 21 years – and this is a common sight here. So many families torn apart during the war. And now is a time of reunification of families. What amazes me is even after 21 years, they don’t really even hug. The hand on the shoulder.

Okay, left out one thing. In Yei, one of the elders gave me a gift of the ebony and ivory stick that is carried only by the elders. I am really honored and I must walk with it everywhere.

I have been told that we will soon be going to the Internet “café” so I will rush with some bullets:

• There seems to be so much power concentrated in the hands of a few. Her uncle also owns a restaurant and two hotels. There are special restaurants for the elite.
• There are starting to be some fat Sudanese. Those in power can eat and drink beer.
• There is a staff of drivers and body guards here, but they are not treated very well. They do not eat until 10 pm.
• I have been re-reading the Declaration of Independence and the US Constituition – It gives much power to the people. The people must be informed and literate in order to exercise their constitutional rights. Education is the key here. I believe it will be hard for the elite to give up power.
• The officers all send their kids to schools abroad – Kenya, Uganda, and Europe and the US, while there is no free education here and the average Sudanese cannot afford to go to school.
• Democracy will not come easily – but I believe the western powers should invest in South Sudan.
• Being with the Dinka leadership, I have not lost any weight in Africa.
• Dreams – I have had the strangest dreams – and all of them about things that I don’t have: a job, an apartment and parents. My parents (died in 1975 and 1984) are in almost all of my dreams. I also find myself principal of various schools and I don’t know anyone there or I didn’t know I was the principal………I am also always in a different apartment – in one case living with my mother and kicking out my sister in revenge for when I came back from Europe in 1980 and she told me that there was no room for me anymore in my father’s apt.
• Another odd dream – On the first night I dreamt there was a video about John Garang and I told the family about it. The next day they announced that a film was just made and will be shown on the anniversary of his death (tomorrow). They found this a bit prophetic. I calmed them down. I’m not looking to be a white prophet.
• I have met the Sultan of Malek who will meet me up there.There was a bit of a prophecy that a Lost Girl would return from afar with a kawaga to open a school………gotta be careful of the prophecies……..i don’t wanna go anywhere near one……I jut wanna be a guy opening a school……there too much history here dealing with prophets.
• Things that don’t faze me anymore: goats, bulls, chickens, monkeys, lizards, garbage, littering, men sitting around, public nose picking, eagles, no water, no electricity, darkness, mud huts, the stares, ….it’s all good…..
• Another quick story – I was eating and whenever I eat, I taste this gritty/sandy texture. I asked what it was.. “It is sand, of course.”
• No one has small change here – you either get a credit or have to buy more. If everyone is paying in small change, why have they none for me? Very interesting.
• I am rich – though I am not a rich American, I have running water, a car, and a bag of electronics that could feed a family for four years..I also have glasses and a tooth brush.
• When traveling with women in one of Uncle’s cars, I have opened the door for the women. They find this shocking, since no one ever does that for them. Then I realized that in America, I might be considered anti-feminist for doing this. I just can’t win.
• Broom handles……..there is so much work here that involves the back. Sweeping with the straw broom – someday, someone will attach a stick and life will be easier.
• It is still exciting to be in a nation that is starting from ground zero. Juba has been bombed and bombed – and I hear that Bor is worse. Nothing has progressed here since 1983 and some say since 1956. Things are dilapidated – roads are hellish, there are still land mines,….but there are bits of sunlight – flowers growing in a field of weeds…..there is hope – but they must make progress while the hope is still here. There are so many people without jobs and little to eat. The afterglow of the peace will soon wear away and people will get tired of waiting for life to get better. I hope they use their funds and begin to fix the roads, build hospitals and schools and begin to spread the wealth. The South can be rich – it has oil and diamonds, but does it have the leadership? And can the leadership inspire the will of the people. Africa has had such a poor history of nation building. Do they need a Singapore-type benevolent dictatorship? I hope not. They can jump generations of technology – go wireless ….they have phones and can have internet to communicate where countries before had to send “runners” by foot. And how does this all fit into the current ethnic/tribal/cultural structure? .We shall see……This can be a beautiful country with beautiful people. They are hungry to learn, though no one has books. They find it strange when I sit outside and read by myself. They come over to make sure I am not bored. I have not seen a person reading. Though, when I have a book, they grab it and read sections and discuss. They are hungry to learn. This could be paradise.
• Some writing from the other day – forgot I wrote it: written about three days ago: some of it repeats…sorry…….in a rush to get this done…..will not have internet access for over a week, I assume……..



Yesterday, I was out at the CRS compound and came back to some strange energy The men from the father’s family were all very drunk and being very vocal. They feel that Aduei has been closer to the mother’s family – which is true since she didn’t really see her father since she was one – he was away.


They felt that the school should be located in another town near Bor and not in Malek where the mother’s family is from. Then they also were criticizing Aduei for being too American and wondering why she was not married yet….mixed drunk messages of pride that she is getting educated, but also that she should be married and having children at her age. ……

We await his permission to travel. I am grateful for their protection and I know that my experience will be so different if not for them. As I was out today, I was at a place that was showing music videos from their solar powered generator. I looked around and was with Abot and Deng, the deaf mute. I thought about the TDDY phone system we have and realized that that must be about number one million on their list of prioities and how foturnate we are in America to be able to worry about things such as rights for the disabled. I can also understand how the colonials saw the world and thought they could recreate it in their eyes – but it is not so simple. Sure, it seems like we should build roads, put in electricity

Wow, it’s dark…….all places are pitch black at night and everyone is black…..this is not easy.

But there is so much about the culture here that cannot simply be transposed into the modern world. The way they see the world is so different. The concept of power is also something that will control how changes are made. Will the leadership get most of the wealth? Do they understand the western concept of democracy. Will anyone with power really be willing to share it? Today the mother worked all day as 20 men sat around and drank – then in the afternoon, men had nothing to do. If everyone would have worked for five minutes, the place could have been cleaned up. When I suggested it, they said that they should get a woman servant. To help the mom….mom is sick and cannot be cured here. One must go to Kampala or Nairobi for treatment. She is in pain. The man sitting next to me has malaria and no money for pills. I still don’t understand how money is earned or spent here I can’t imagine wha tthat will be like. The clay roads – there are no sidewalks at all – are filled with garbage and waste. I am preparing myself for the capital of the south – Juba.

A wife is bought for a dowry and then she is like property. Kids are bought for cows. The slavery concept is still deeply imbedded. A man truly believes that he owns the woman and she must do all for him. A man can buy his kids for six cows from a wife he wants to leave……

Abot - the man who gives me access to the Internet and takes me to good places

The party, More Kids, and Relatives

Photo taken on my computer a minute ago........my mustache is growing back......a few of you asked if i had shaved it off - no, i just got trimmed pretty close in Kampala........Picture of Deng, an uncle, boys with 50 cent shirt,

The Bull meets his fate and a feast is prepared

Mamer Dit Abot - My Dinka Name

What follows is an uneditied compilation of rambling written whenever i could use the computer...........


July 23, 2006


Mamel Dit Abot

Sitting at the compound and realizing how hard it is to write with the sun in the background and the kids all wanting me to take a picture with built-in camera. They are amazed at how fast I type and that I can type without looking. I have been writing things down in my notebook and I am just going to copy them onto this blog. So here goes:

Wait, wait, not so fast….forgot to mention that I am sitting in the compound amidst the remnants of yesterday’s feast. I was woken up at about 5 am to witness the slaughtering of the bull. Protected by my drowsiness, I was sort-of able to watch – I will always remember the sound of the bull as the axe went into his neck and someone took a knife to slit his throat. I kept getting flashbacks of the memorable scene in Apocalypse Now when Martin Sheen is about to kill Kurtz (Brando) and the Doors’ “The End” swells in the background and Sheen is soaked in sweat and he approaches Brando with his sword and Coppola shows us the slaugerting of a bull when the lyrics say: I’m going to kill you” and then the music builds up and we see a frenzy of blood as the bull is killed……okay enough…………the point is that bull was slaughtered and this was followed by a procession of people coming to prepare for the feast. About 40 women were cooking all sorts of dishes and the there was not a part from the bull which was not used for these dishes. As I sit here now, I am looking at the flies attacking the skin of the bull which is stretched out on the ground – staked like a tent (I could say “steaked” but that would really be anawful pun)……soon to made into some of leather product……..

Back to yesterday…….A tent was put up, the church brought chairs and by 5pm the speeches began. Some focused on the return of Aduei and how she must not forget her Dinka heritage. There was fear by some of the people that I was her husband. This was corrected in the first speech. The themes surrounding Aduei were about how the Dinka in America – the lost boys and girls – must come back to Sudan to help rebuild it. They must bring what is good, but not the bad things from America. The Dinka ways must be respected. I’m not sure how prepared people are for the changes that will happen with the arrival of westernized Dinka. I’m not sure that any woman who has lived in the West will be able to return to the subservient and obedient lifestyle of a Dinka woman. It will be interesting to see how the men who return feel about the Dinka way where they are kings and are waited on and pampered by their women.

The speeches went on – the priest, some high generals who were leaders in the SPLA , and some relatives. Then Aduei spoke and I spoke. I’m getting used to giving these speeches here. It was well received. My first line after saying “good afternoon” in Dinka was “I am not here to marry a Dinka girl.” Most of this is on tape – or at least the beginning.

Note of rechargeable batteries – My camera, Aduei’s video camera, my computer and almost any electronic thing I have here has a rechargeable battery. I have always thought that rechargeable batteries were great. The only problem with them is that they require easy access to electricity in order for them to be useful. Here, when the battery runs out, it may be days until the “charger shop” – has an empty socket for us to plug into as their generator hums away. I have been more fortunate than most Sudanese in that Abot, Aduei’s childhood friend and now a friend of mine has taken me to the CRS compound where they electricity during certain periods of the day, as well as internet.

Back to the festivities – so there were about a hundred or one fifty here as the speeches continued. I was blessed by the priests and told that god is watching me and protecting me in my mission to build a free school in Sudan. Everyone seems to think that it is amazing and brave that I am trying to do this project on my own and that I have come here without the help of an agency. The speeches were embarrassing to me as they praised me over and over again about the school, coming from America to Sudan, and the father spoke about how I have embraced their culture. I have chosen to eat with my hands – as they do – and sleep in the huts and take cold showers with the bucket….and on and on and on….


The Big Announcement:


So the father was speaking and they called me up and announced that as of today I shall be known as Mamer Dit Abot (ma – MER deet a-BOT) – the big red and white bull. Many names are given based on where you were born or what happened on that day. I am named after the red and white bull who was slaughtered in my honor. At church this morning (yes, I went again to respect the mom who is very religious), I was greeted by all as Mamer Dit………..From Kawaja to Chaaaaly to Mamer Dit………..Oh, and Abot is the family’s last name and they have accepted me into their family/clan.

Should I change the name of the website to Mamer Dit Abot in Sudan?

Then we ate and ated and drank and drank. Finally, I recorded some Dinka songs that the guys were singing – a bit alcohol influenced, but quite good nonetheless. Sort of like a blues spiritual mixed with a sailor’s song.

Beer

One of the things the south fought against the the Sharia Moslem law of the north. It was imposed on the whole country and alcohol was prohibited. With the CPA – the peace agreement, there is no Sharia law in the south and there is now beer from Uganda. Beer has become a status symbol and for the most part, drunk by people who have money. These are the same people who can maybe afford a motorcycle. So let’s put this formula together – beer + motorcycle + no street lamps + treacherous roads + no eye gasses = you should walk on the side of the road with care.

Beer is also thought of as something that will help you gain weight. It is quite obvious why a country that has just come out of decades of war with a few famines thrown in would not sell diet sodas. Fatty foods are preferred, especially goat. In the USA, anyone can get fat. It actually take work to stay slim. Everyone is slim here and having a little bulk is desirable. On some packages of food – such as Blue Bonnet – the margarine that doesn’t need to be refrigeration, it proudly brags about its fat content.

I have just gone inside as it is pouring outside . When it rains, it rains……..rivers form in the clay and everyone finds a place to get covered. There are no raincoats here. In about 15 minutes, the sun will come out, the temperature will be cool and life will be good.

Deng

Deng is Aduei’s older brother who has been deaf and dumb since he had meningitis when he was 3. He is the most caring, sensitive guy. He took me to an Ethiopian restaurant yesterday. Everyone knows him and says hello to him. It seems like everyone has figured out how to communicate with him. For me it was interesting walking with him as I realized how much I depend on my hearing – especially listening for the sounds of vehicles in the road – and how he most somehow compensate by walking as one drives – checking mirrors, or in his case, turning around and watching other people. He is so protective of me and notices everything. We can sit and have a conversation with sign language that I just make up as I go along. Who knows if we really understand each other? All I know that we felt close and laughed together as we signed away……..

Schools

I was looking at the kids’ notebooks and was impressed with their use of the English language. Sentences begin: “In light of the revolutionary changes brought on by the implementation of ….” I asked the kids what this all means and they could not tell me. They could repeat the sentences by heart and do well on a test, but they only understood about a quarter of what was written. The teacher just writes on the board and the kids copy it. I can’t wait to have my own school where kids will be taught to think and discuss what is being learned.

Fisher Price and Comments about the White Doll

It’s great to watch the kids stay occupied with sticks, plastic bottles, leaves, rocks, socks, etc. They seem more content than American kids with their slew of Fisher Price toys and videos to watch.

The Doll – It turns out that Aduei bought the doll and really didn’t think about the color. There are no black dolls here in Africa. Strange, but true. Wherever they get them from, only has white dolls. Lori Taylor has said that she will be sending some black dolls.

In the church – Jesus is also the blonde haired blue eyed version. I don’t get it.

Kids are still fascinated by the hair on my legs, but even more by my ability to wiggle my nose. I haven’t lost a pound here, but I am getting darker which is quite slimming, they say……..everywhere I go, people feed me whatever they have. I must eat or I face the risk of insulting them…..and so I eat………..

Sometimes I think that Christianity is more about being the Un-Islam, as about love of Christ. They really hate the Arabs because of the years of domination by the Arab/Moslem north. The Arabs used to steal children and keep them as slaves. This was very common. They love Israel. As they say in the Middle East – and probably in other places too – the enemy of my enemy is my friend. They are amazingly impressed that I was in the Israel army in the Gaza Strip. Hmmmm

The Globe – Can someone please explain this to me? There are two questions that I have been asking teachers to explain to me for years. The first one was how the moon affects the tides and I think that I got the answer to that. The other one is that I cannot understand how people at the equator are not standing sideways and people in the southern hemisphere walking upside down. Sure, somewhere in there, we must subtract 23 and a half degrees for the tilt of the earth….and the earth is big so the curve is very slight….but still. It does not make sense to me.

Another question: the toilets here are a hole in the ground. Why don’t they put a chair with a hole in it to sit in above the hole? I think that reading in the can is the one cultural item that should be brought from America. I think that it will promote literacy.

Democracy – I worry that it will not come so smoothly. There is a regimented hierarchy here – from the concept to elders (one always gives a seat to an elder – I like being old here – I also get to sit shotgun when I am in a car). I am now typing away and hoping that I will be able to get to an Internet café to post this before I leave for Juba tomorrow. Abot says to bring the computer. Others say that it may get ruined by the water splashing from the Nile…….Democracy – it seems that there is a military hierarchy and financial one as well. People in a position in power have no trouble treating those below them like shit. At the compound there is a man who has been assigned by the army to do tasks. He is a former mathematics teacher and is very bright, though is an alcoholic and always looking for money for smokes. Anyway, he sleeps in the kitchen or outside and treated like a slave in some ways………..

Not everyone loves everyone.

SO as I get to know everyone better, I can now differentiate between Dinka and non-Dinka. Ugandan and Ethiopian and Kenyan and Sudanese. And then the usual talk begins – the Kenyan doesn’t like the Dinka. The Dinka may not trust the Ugandan…..all black, but very different.

In church today, I was brought to the front and treated once more like a special guest. I know that I am really accepted when they ignore me. I don’t know if my skin color will ever allow that.

Small change:

In Yei, it is almost impossible to break a bill over 1000 Ugandan shillings (about 50 cents). No one has change. They will often give you a slip with credit or just refuse the sail

Random thoughts

I think of the Star Trek primary directive, which was not to interfere with the culture. Actually I think of it quite often.

Heard a story about a man who was cheating on his wife. So, she took a lover. She got arrested for this and after she served her time, she was sent home to be with her husband. She was not happy and was not being the good wife that she should have been. The husband went to the police who were coming with him to beat her up when the husband’s motorcycle crashed. He died. End of story.

Another story. A man came in here with a gun the other morning looking for the family troublemaker who was sleeping with his wife……….

Genital mutilation is not practiced in southern Sudan, though it is in the North. I was speaking with an Ethiopian man who thought it was quite natural, though some people in the big city – Addis – are not doing it anymore. He also talked about how men don’t want to wait for a women to be moist and aroused, so, in some cultures, women are forced to put unripe bananas up their vaginas to stretch it out and make it easier for the man to enter when the women is not ready. I swear, I don’t make these things up. Pretty mind blowing.

Find some foreign aid workers who want to help with the water system and solar power for the school.

The stories of each and every person here is incredible. I cannot blame them for wanting to enjoy life. Each day people are being united with their families. Every person has seen scores of people get killed. – by bullets, famine, disease. Towns were destroyed, there were no markets and very little food. These are the good times. So many kids were sent away from the fighting to refugee camps with the hope that they would get an education. Aduei and Abot are examples. It worked for them, but they often had to march hundreds of miles to new settings – as the political climate changed – and like most, did not see their parents for over a decade – many not knowing who was alive and who was not.

A bit later in the afternoon and Abot has just picked me up. I will not take the computer – not into the whole water swishing into the boat thing – so I will be out of touch for about a week. Leaving for Juba in the morning and will stay with Aduei’s uncle, the chief of police…..then to do the real work in planning the school. I will try to upload some photos………hopefully it will work………ciao….

Just a few more images

A blurry image of my hut, Abot, my friend at CRS standing outside his tukul, and some street shots.....oh yeah, and pumping water from the well....not necessarily in that order......

The Internet is going strong, so i'll try to upload some more photos

The tenth attempt at uploading photos

A Great Description of Sudan

Anyone who is interested in South Sudan should read Emma’s War by Deborah Scroggins. On page 79, there is a great description that I want to share with you.

What has happened cannot be made to not to have happened, and often in Sudan I have felt that what has happened cannot be made to stop happening. The British-Sudanese writer Jamal al-Mahjouib once said that to understand the Sudan, you need a layered map like one of those cellophane diagrams of the human body that used to be in encyclopedias. As you peeled away the top piece of cellophane labeled “Sudan”, you would find a succession of maps lying underneath. A map of languages, for example, and under that a map of ethnic groups, and under that a map of ancient kingdoms, until, as Mahjoub wrote, “it becomes clear the country is not really a country at all, but many. A composite of layers, like a genetic fingerprint of memories that were once fluid, but have since crystallized out from the crucible of possibility, encouraged by the catalyst of the European colonial adventure.”

I have often thought that you need a similar kind of layered map to understand Sudan’s civil war. A surface map of political conflict, for example – the northern government versus the southern rebels; and under that a layer of religious conflict-Muslim versus Christian and pagan; and under that a map of all the sectarian divisions within those categories; and under that a layer of ethnic divisions – Arab and Arabized versus Nilotic and Equatorian – all of them containing a multitude of clan and tribal subdivisions; and under that a layer of linguistic conflicts; and under that a layer of economic divisions- the more developed north with fewer natural resources versus the poorer south with its rich mineral and fossil fuel deposits; and under that a layer of colonial divisions; and under that a layer of racial divisions related to slavery. And so on and so on until it would become clear that the war, like the country was not one but many; a violent ecosystem capable of generating endless new things to fight about without ever shedding any of the old ones.

A very long entry while i wait for photos to upload

July 21, 2006

Below are some random notes I have taken over the past few days. Finding electricity and internet is quite a challenge and I am once again at the CRS compound where they have a generator for a few hours a day. Just a few notes on the blog: I do not have time to proofread since I am usually fighting against the clock where the electricity is suddenly turned off. Also I have not re-read the blog and may repeat myself. One last note: many of you are responding through email – the beauty of a blog is that you can post comments on the blog for others to respond to.

Random thoughts about toilets: When I was taking my shower this morning – cold water from the river in a bucket spilled over my head, I was thinking about when I moved to Paris in 1978 and I had no shower, but only a sink where I used to sponge myself. There was also a Turkish toilet down the hall. I thought about how quant and old fashioned this all was. Compared to the conditions here – there is no running water in people’s huts and no flushing toilets – just holes in the ground. Only the very few people who have money for generators (mostly foreign organizations) which they can use for a few hours a day. The good thing is that I am seeing use of solar panels on a small scale. I hope that solar is the way that they will go.

I am getting used to the smells of rotting garbage, feces, urine, mixed with roasted goat. I will miss it someday.

Getting Paid

The men were sitting around this morning talking about how incredible it is that soldiers are getting paid for the first time ever. They are receiving paychecks for May and June and some of them do not know what to do. There has been an “outbreak” of drunken soldiers who have already wasted all of their paychecks on booze. I’m still not sure where anyone gets money from around here or how they buy food. No one has been paid for years and the market has only been around for about a year. Until then, Yei was filled with soldiers and military vehicles. It is quite exciting to see the vibrancy of the city. Though it looks like a muddy shanty town, it is building up slowly and there is so much hope. Soon, the garbage can may come into existence here. One throws everything on the ground until the piles are really big and then they burn them eventually. Sidenote: in Kampala, Uganda there are no garbage cans for reasons of security – bombs could be placed in them. Sidenote is now over…………..In Cuba, there was no litter, but that was because there was nothing to throw on the ground. Here, they are starting to get products packaged in plastic and the streets are beginning to get filled with all sorts of garbage. Though I hear that Yei is clean compared to area that I am going to. I will be leaving my computer here in Yei,so will probably not be posting for about two weeks. As I head up the Nile to Bor and Malek, there will be no electricity or internet and they say that the moisture there can kill any machine – unless the crocodiles eat it.



I am Chaalee Odla – the White Dinka

The sound of “Kawaja” greets me – especially from children. For some I am the first white person that they have ever seen. The older ones approach me and shake me hand. The younger ones are scared until I smile and they come over too. They love to touch the hair on my arms. I showed them my hairy chest and they couldn’t believe that there are people who are just like animals with so much hair. I guess, I’ll never get a job here as a body model. The wonderful thing is that in the area near the compound, the sound of Kawaja has begun to change to the sound of “Chaaaaly” “Halo Chaaaly”…………Some call me Cha-less as well. They are precious and welcoming.

No Smoking

It’s interesting that with all the chaos and lack of rules, there is no smoking indoors anywhere. There are no street signs, or any driving related signs, but here are “No Smoking” signs in all indoor facilities. It could be that everything is covered in bone dry straw…..hmmmm….just a thought.


All we are saying, is give peace a chance.

It has been very eye-opening to see the work of the UN in action. I have seen the peace keepers, and the trucks bringing supplies. Yesterday I met with a Sudanese man who showed me the CPA –the Comprehensive Peace Agreement. It is incredibly detailed and based very closely on the US Constitution. I was thrilled and amazed to read it. If only the north with follow it. There are rumblings that the North is already breaking some of the agreed terms. If you notice, I changed the name of the blog to South Sudan. It really is a separate country. English is the chosen language here, whereas Arabic is the official language in the North. Islam and sharia law rule the north, whereas Christianity (with a very broad interpretation – i.e. polygamy is allowed) and paganism are the norm. I always carry a copy of the Declaration of Independence and the US Constitution with me. I have let some of the peacekeepers read it. They are proud that their Constitution has so much in common with ours. They are in awe of democracy in America. Remember, there has never been an election in South Sudan.

The White Doll

There have been many comments about the white doll that the girls were playing with. I have not seen another doll anywhere. Toys are a rare commodity and kids seem to just amuse themselves with whatever is laying (lying?) around. This doll was somehow brought to them and I don’t think that they see it as an ideal. I will ask about it…….

People have been fascinated by my tan. They see the tan lines made by my sandals and by my shirt. They’re threatening to begin calling me the Red Dinka.


Notes from yesterday:

I know you want pictures but it is very hard them. In order for them to be uploaded to the blog, there must be about fifteen minutes of uninterrupted internet service. This happens every so often. Yesterday I tried for hours. I will now try loading one photo at a time.

Animals, food, and stress

I am sitting here at the compound and goats are coming by and eating the grass, a mother chicken with her hens are meandering by, ducks are looking for puddles to wade in…..the line between animal and person is quite fluid…..for a city boy this is a real treat….lizards, snails the size of rats, huge swine, a monkey or two………..today I was offered dry white ants as a dessert. The man I was with declined, so I felt that I could do. Ah, lost experiences……………..If they were fried, I would tried…….I swear…….really……….By the way, food has been great – not very spicy – er, actually quite bland. No vinegar or garlic. I think I have found my gastronomical heaven. I have begun to venture into buying food cooked in the street and it’s been amazing. There’s a Kenyan specialty called Tzarfati – it’s like a crepe with egg……….i could live on it……..My stomach has been great. I have even begun to drink local water through the filter that I bought. I think that Africa has been the cure for all the stomach problems I have had over the past ten years. Actually what is amazing is that I am sleeping on a “mattress” that is lumpy and crooked - while at home I sleep on a Tempur-Pedic super duper great-for-your-back mattress. My back has never felt better. No tendonitis, no allergies, not a single headache. Even my tooth with the nerve damage has not bothered me. Stress……it’s all about stress. Take it away and the body is so

In Sight

I also notice that very few people have glasses and at first I thought that it was some sort of natural selection good eye survival concept. But it turns out that many cannot see well and that glasses are prohibitively expensive. Fortunately there are very cars and few people with licenses. Let’s hope that eye care improves before everyone begins driving on these roads.

Women are Equal - NOT

As we sit around all day, there are all these men who have nothing to do. Some drink tea and others play domino. Others just sit around in silence. Until last year, all these men were soldiers in the civil war and now there is nothing of them to .do. The government has yet to get their affairs in order and begin to divide up the tasks of nation building. There are men ready to work. But for now, they do absolutely nothing, especially since they are not allowed to do any of the shopping, cleaning, or taking care of their kids. The women are busy with all of this – carrying heavy jugs of water on their heads and it is forbidden for a man to help. This will change, though many of the Dinka believe that it can never change – it is the way that is has always been. The men are kings. They sit around and wait to be served. The food magically appears and the dirty plates magicially disappear into a hut that they never visit – the kitchen hut. There is also a helplessness on my part and a dependence on others, especially the women. I cannot make myself something to eat or wash my clothes, or make a cup of coffee. But, as Chen, my bodyguard said today: Women are equal. And my response was, yes, they are totally equal except that they have absolutely no rights.: “Ah, a minor point.” He responded.

I am learning some Dinka words and I feel like a little kid. There is no word for “please”………They are thrilled when I ask for food in Dinka “Bay – Schween” and greet them with “Goodvall arrette.”……………

I walked around town today and I feel at home. People recognize me and come up and greet me. They are so gentle and friendly. Only an occasional drunk will come by and hassle me. Otherwise everyone is honest and kind.

Every night there is noise coming from the outdoor movie theater. They have a generator and huge speakers and the sound of a kung fu movie is heard from everywhere. In my mind, I pictured something like a drive-in theater. In reality, it is a crowd gathered around a 24’ TV with speakers attached to it.

Moving up in the Dinka world:

I have gone through various stages of greeting. First the simple hand shake. Then the handshake, soul handshake, handshake routine. Now, the elders are putting their right hand on my left shoulder – and I do the same. This is a sign of respect and honor. I am honored. I truly am.

At the compound, people throw things on the ground and the women come and them up at the end of the day and sweep the clay floors with straw brooms with no handle. I would like to introduce the concept of the trash can to make it easier for them. I will see how this is greeted.

Sex and AIDS

There is no education about AIDS here because sex is simply not discussed. There is really not much sexuality here. Women walk barebreasted feeding their children and no one pays any mind. Men never check out women. It is forbidden for women to know anything about sex until their marriage night when they are told never to refuse anything their husbands want. Men have girlfriends, I am told,but it is not discussed. They can be fined cows and women can be jailed for this offense. Also brothers may beat the man. Also, it is okay for a man to hit a disobient wife. I have not seen a comdom being sold, though they may be available behind the counter. I will check.

Wise words from a veteran of the Foreign Service

So, I must give thanks to Lawrence Taylor, Lori’s father, who talked to me about what makes a country successful. He compared two countries – one with natural resources and one without out. Actually, he compared two islands. One would assume that the one with all the resources would be the more successful. But then he used Japan and Indonesia as examples. The moral of the story is that what makes a country successful is education, leadership, and the will of the people. I have been talking about this to the Dinka and they say that Mr. Lawrence (not sure it’s spelled with a “w: or a “u”) is a very wise man. His incredible daughter should be here to represent him and be with me.





Another short post: Photos here are of the Dinka with their cows, a view of a typical road in Yei. Being a driver here is considered a great talent - to able to navigate the floods, holes, hills, valleys and everchanging roadscape. The lone bull in the picture is the one. He doesn't realize that he will feed many people tomorrow. I looked out of my hut after hearing some strange sounds and i said to myself (excuse the language that goes on in my head): "There's a fucken' bull outside my hut." I repeated that a few times until i realized that this was the bull we were waiting for - the one who will be slaughtered in our honor tomorrow. I'm trying not to get too close to the bull and develop an emotional attachment. I really want to tell him to run for his life. Growing up in Brooklyn, meat came from the supermarket or the butcher - neatly packaged and bearing no resesmblence to the actual animal. The fact that the meat came from a live animal was an abstract concept to me. If I needed anything to take me from the abstract to the concrete, this bull, along with the chickens they have been killing and cooking - oh yeah and the goat the other night..........will do it for me. Yes, i finally understand where meat comes from. Other photos are from the kitchen of an Ethiopian "restaurant" we went to yesterday. And finally a photo of a sign warning of mines.

I met a relative “brother” of Aduei in Kampala who is trying to become a doctor. In a later e mail, he tells me that he has passed his exams and dedicates that to me. Here is an excerpt from his first letter to me. I is to give you an idea of the Dinka culture – the assumption of family, the calling of every close relative “brother or sister” and their respect:

It takes a great deal of humility and courage for a person from a far to come to a relatively insecure place, besides sacrificing your time with your family and your resources. Your abilty to cope up with new way of doing things is amazing.
It is my sincere hope that you will enjoy staying here atleast for the few days you will be with the DINKA people.Sudan is such adiverse country.
Your smile offers a lot to those who have little to give .You surely have given us an opportunity to let AMERICANS know what the DINKA are like, their way of life et cetra.
THANKS TO MY SISTER FOR COMING WITH YOU. ENJOY HERE COMPANY AND THAT OF OUR PEOPLE!
JUST HAVE FUN!
Your friend
Chuor de Garang Alier.

Photos two at a time

The bull has arrived

Another short post: Photos here are of the Dinka with their cows, a view of a typical road in Yei. Being a driver here is considered a great talent - to able to navigate the floods, holes, hills, valleys and everchanging roadscape. The lone bull in the picture is the one. He doesn't realize that he will feed many people tomorrow. I looked out of my hut after hearing some strange sounds and i said to myself (excuse the language that goes on in my head): "There's a fucken' bull outside my hut." I repeated that a few times until i realized that this was the bull we were waiting for - the one who will be slaughtered in our honor tomorrow. I'm trying not to get too close to the bull and develop an emotional attachment. I really want to tell him to run for his life. Growing up in Brooklyn, meat came from the supermarket or the butcher - neatly packaged and bearing no resesmblence to the actual animal. The fact that the meat came from a live animal was an abstract concept to me. If I needed anything to take me from the abstract to the concrete, this bull, along with the chickens they have been killing and cooking - oh yeah and the goat the other night..........will do it for me. Yes, i finally understand where meat comes from. Other photos are from the kitchen of an Ethiopian "restuarant" we went to yesterday. And finally a photo of a sign warning of mines.

The photos are not loading for some reason...i will try one at a time.

Stil waiting for the bull to arrive

Here are some photos from a visit to Aduei's father's second wife's home - one must be grateful for apostrophes in the English language. I am walking down the road with little Aduei (the child from young wife) and Pa-mela, my best little friend. And yes, I am actually holding a baby - he was crying and i picked him up and he calmed down. We went to visit dad's second - and young- wife two days ago and it turned into a much longer visit than i expected. So i went outside the hut and started throwing a rock around - having a catch with young wife's son - who Aduei calls her brother (actually, she calls wife #2 her mother.....i'm still getting used to all this)....anyway, we toss the rock around and more kids start joining in. Soon a kid steps in the middle and tries to catch the rock - and viola - a game of monkey in the middle was spontaneously born. I'm not sure if all of you know the game or it is just a NYC thing. The person in the middle tries to catch the ball - or rock in this case- and when they do, the person who threw the object goes in the middle. Also in the photos: kids carrying kids and a picture of the second family.

More photos from Yei

It looks like we'll be here for another week. We cannot leave until a cow is slaughtered in our honor and this will not happen until Friday - invitations have been sent out - house to house- and people are coming from afar.

So here are some more photos of the compound, Adeui's sister father and a trip to the market. Actually, i'm having so much trouble uploading these pictures that i'm not sure which pictures are showing up. The dude with the glasses is Aduei's father. The hut is the one i am staying in. The little girl is my sweetheart Pa-mela. Can't remember what else is shown, but i'm sure you'll figure it out. While i wait for the upload, i'll prattle on about the Dinka. I found out last night that if you accidentally kill someone, you must pay 51 cows to their family - actually 50 to family and 1 to the gov't. Though they shake hands a lot and men hold hands, i have seen no kissing at all. Not even between parent and child.

Yei - part two - can't leave until an animal is killed in our honor

July 17th……..events over the past few days.

Not quite sure where to begin. First of all, for those of you who don’t know, Adeui is a Sudanese refugee who came to speak at my school about her life as a refugee. I had wanted to go to Sudan to start a school and she was thrilled to hear thaJt and I when she told me she was going to Sudan in July, she asked if I wanted to come and that is how this all came about. She was taken from her parents when she was about 3 and became one of the Lost Boys/Girls of Sudan. She is 22 and was brought to America 5 years ago and is now a student at Brandeis. This week was the first time she saw her mother in 17 years, her father in 20, and she met her younger brother for the first time ever. She is Dinka and we have been staying with her family.

The past few days have been mind-blowing. It is now Monday the 17th and I am in a CRS (Catholic Relief Services) compound. There are torrential rains, but the generator is working, as is the internet. They also have running water and a real toilet which I will dream about for weeks to come. I am meeting with representatives from various NGO’s and creating a network which will me to build and fund the school in Maliek.

I saw an amazing shooting star in the incredible African sky. It was like a fireball and I felt I could touch it. If I was a religious man, I would say that this was a great omen. Since I am not, I will just hope that this is a great omen – or at least a cool thing to see.

I wonder what took me so long to get to the heart of Africa. This world is filled with possibility, hope, suffering, human interaction, and confusion. In southern Sudan it feels like they are at the beginning of a new society – coming out of decades of civil war and just now having the ability to hope for normalcy and progress. Of course, the world progress is always a double-edged sword. They need the simple things like roads, drinking water, food, schools, hospitals. But Southern Sudan is a world in which the traditional cultures are very strong. Where they fought for years to avoid domination by the Moslem north and then imposition of Sharia law. The largest tribe, the Dinka – who lost over a million and a half people during the war – are a tribe where a man can have as many wives as he can afford and the cost of marriage is a dowry of 30 cows. Everything of value seems to be measure in cows. But as S. Sudan opens up to “progress” there will be an influx of western ideas and already the women have begun to talk about equal rights. As it stands right now, a man purchases his bride for 30 cows and she is his forever – it is like slavery in a way. She must cook, clean, raise children, find animals to kill, and so much more. And remember, cooking does not mean putting something in the microwave. All is made from scratch and cooked over a fire. The water must be carried on her head from the river. The water is used for cooking, bathing, washing clothes. All this can only be done by the woman. Men are absolutely forbidden to do this. There is talk of men and women being equal, but I think the men think this means that women can get jobs like men, but I’m not sure they believe that women should give up any of their other tasks.

Other issues include looking for the right technologies and not developing with high pollution ridden factories. Solar energy is a natural here. Will they embrace it as they should?

I have felt like a doctor at the compound with my bacitracin and band aid – the kids line up with their cuts.

Note to self: next time bring tons of band aids and antibiotic cream.

So everyone in the town is aware that I have come to Sudan to try to build a school along the Nile in Maliek. They are greeting me so warmly. Yesterday, I went with the family to church – most were converted to Christianity over the past 100 years – and they invited me to speak in front of the congregation of over a 1000. Adeui spoke first and then I gave a speech which was greeted with incredible enthusiasm.

Walking down the streets I am greeting and am constantly shaking hands. Kids come and yell “Kawage” – white man and shake my hand and touch the hair on my legs and arms.

Went out with one of Adeui’s childhood friends to a “bar” where we – about 10 men – women do not go out with the men – drank beer and they roasted a goat which we ate with our hands. Next thing I knew a chicken was there too……felt like those medieval English scenes……

My body guard has finally left me alone for the day since I am at the compound. He is very overprotective – fearful what will happen to him if the elders find out that I was not taken care of. We went into “town” to get the camera battery charged. There are places that have a few plugs and they charge to charge. I also went for a shave. They use electric razors and it did nothing for my heavy white man beard. He said one side grew back before he finished shaving the other side.

The Dinka do not marry early because they must prove that they are ready and have enough cows. There are many more women than men – due to the years of war. So, many elderly men take on younger wives. Adeui’s father has a 29 year old wife in addition to her mother.

Adeui’s father is an interesting man. He is in charge of wildlife for southern Sudan. He talked to me about the horrors of the wars and made me realize that all the kids in the compound would have been soldiers if this was ten years ago. Almost everyone here was a child soldier – from the age of 7 or 8 , they fought.

My head is spinning with so many thoughts and the excitement of having the school be a small part in this new Sudan.

Aduei is struggling with her new American idea as a women and seeing how it is to be a woman here. I have not seen her very much here since she has been with the woman – working in the kitchen hut. She also washed my clothes. Remember, I am forbidden. It is a bit hard for me, but very difficult for her. The men simply order women around and do not lift a finger. I have coffee brought to me at 10:30 and 3:30, food brought to me clothing washed…….beer………and I CANNOT do anything.

We are going to heading north to Juba over the next few days. We cannot leave until we are properly welcomed into Sudan. That means they must kill some sort of animal in our honor and invite guests to officially greet us. I assume it will be a goat or a cow. Then we head up the Nile to Bor – it takes one day and there are hippos and crocodiles along the way. Also lots of baboons. In Bor will meet with the Minister of Education for the area and then go to Maliek to decide on the site for the school………….Once I leave this area, not sure when the next internet post will come………..But for now, I am loving Africa…………

By the way, I would like to make it clear to all you that the 22 year old Dinka woman Adeui and I are in no way involved. I have gotten some emails asking me this question. If I was in any way involved with her, I would have to immediately give her family 30 cows and marry her. I don’t think that would suit any of us involved in all this. And besides, I’m saving my cows for Baseball playoff tickets.

Photos from Yei

Here are some photos of the compound where i am staying and the Dinka who are taking care of me. The soldiers let me put on a uniform for the picture. No, i have enlisted in the SPLA. (Sudanese People's Liberation Army)

First Days in South Sudan

July 13th.

Began the day in the”hotel” with body guard and a group to greet us and we got to the compound – home of the inspector general a very important man who is giving me protection. It is incredible. It is all straw huts, no electricity, tons of relatives coming and going - Adeui’s grandfather had 30 wives so there is a very big family. Everyone is so warm and friendly. There is a lot of handshaking and the kids are incredibly adorable. They have this one white doll which seems to occupy them without end. The boys are in their blue uniforms on their way to school, though it was just cancelled because the President of South Sudan is coming to town. He is the leader of the SPLA/M (South Sudan Liberation Army/Movement) and also a vice president of Sudan.

There is an outhouse for a bathroom and the men are absolutely forbidden to do any work around the house. The kids bring the water from the river and everyone shakes hands and greets me warmly.

We went into town to see the president and I got special treatment and sat right behind the president. There were four hours of speeches. I am beginning to read Emma’s World – which everyone should reade - and I can see how someone can get caught up in the SPLM cause. Here are some incredible people who are hungry to learn and have been suffering through a civil war for decades and many have become soldiers and unable to get their education. They have been oppressed by the Arabs in the North and do not want to be subject to Sharia – Islamic law. There are agreements which were brokered by the Americans – and thus they love America and even George Bush – and in the agreements (CPA) the oil revenue is supposed to be split 50/50 between the north and south. Fro what I understand, Chevron is taking 90 % to repay them for development and The north is getting the remainder. Actually the south is getting a little bit, but all the oil wells are in the south. This will be an issue when the CPA expires and the south will have a referendum – the first vote ever in Sudan – to decide whether to stay united with the north as one country to for independence. The issues are whether to vote for separation or unity after the CPA expires in five years. A lot depends on how the north abides by the CPA –comprehensive peace agreement. If they do not abide to the letter, then the people will probably vote for independence. The problems still to be solved is that most people cannot read, so how can they vote? And how will they react to voting for the first time?

Then there were women speakers talking who were talking about women’s rights which should be an interesting battle when it happens. The modern woman as opposed to the traditional Sudanese woman. There will be intense generation gaps. Also, they talked about their opposition to the LRA which has caused many atrocities to the southern Sudanese. They helped Khartoum in their fight with the south. Now there are peace talks in Juba – where I will be in a few days. More on women’s rights later. For now, just remember cows. It’s all about the cows.

I believe that if the south votes for independence, then the north will attack because of the oil. I am afraid that the only thing to do is for the south to guarantee the north a portion – 50% of the oil revenue even if it is all in south.
This is complex, but I really hope that the peace keeps going so that they can build roads, hospitals, schools, and become self sufficient.

Many people spoke and spoke – the commissioner and the governor to name a few. Some spoke English, some Arabic and some Dinka.

Back at the compound - People just came and visited and we ate and they brought me beer and it is incredible to see the importance of family and I hope that won’t be lost when they modernize. There are such beautiful things about this culture that I hope will not be lost when modernity comes. They are such gentle people and treat guests like kings. Though quite interestingly, the Dinka have never had a king – they ruled by a confederation of clans who somehow worked things out. Other tribes have had kings.

Slept in a hut until 10:30 and now I am refreshed. ….last night issue about me going out to bar…argument………….saw the monkey this morning…..

More to come………

-_______________

I am attempting to put photos on the site but it is not working. Show patience. I have so much to write from Southern Sudan. For now, let's say that this is the most amazing experience of my life so far.

First days in Uganda

Monday, around two a.m. on the plane to Entebbe. July tenth………my reading light doesn’t work so I can’t find the number buttons……..

The adventure begins and getting there is part of the fun. Boston to London was fairly uneventful. Both Adeui and I got only one hour of sleep and we landed at Heathrow a bit dazed. Exchanged some money – I found 120 Euros in my passport case – checked our bags for the day and made sure Adeui had a seat on the next leg of the trip. We took the tube to London and walked around Covent Garden, Charring Cross, and Embankment. Over the bridge, saw the Thames, Big Ben, and Parliament. Lots of actors out on this beautiful Sunday and even an amazing frozen person – you know, those guys who just stand there and make you wonder if they are a statue or not. We had a daily pass for the public transportation and just hopped on busses until we found an area we liked…….i had learned to use my camera on the plane and used up the battery, so we bought some disposables, along with deodorant in London. Had a great Shepard’s pie lunch and got on the tube back to the airport. Met a nice Irish guy who helped us with directions. Back at the airport, Adieu continued to sense out every Sudanese, and especially every Dinka. Met a guy who we gave our pass to.

Met UN worker, a Sudanese John Simon who says he will contact me. Everyone is supportive of the school idea. The closer we get to Sudan, the less crazy people think we are since many have been there and it doesn’t sound so insane to them. The plane to Entebbe was delayed two hours with engine problems and I somehow am in a bulkhead seat and upgraded seat with tons of legroom. Fell asleep immediately and woke up to eat the best meal in a long time. Airline food, but maybe my lasueit chicken meal for a while. Had a glass of wine. Before the plane took off, Aduei ran over to me from her seat further back and tears were flowing from her eyes. A black man was being beaten and it brought back memories of torture. He was handcuffed and thrown off the. He was screaming. Adeui was in pain. She was like a small child who has suffered so much.

Travellng with Adeui has been great. She is the expert on the culture and I am simply the older person. It is like traveling with a daughter, though everyone looks at us and wonders what is up. They can tell that she is not my daughter, so they assume that she is my girlfriend. People look. When we tell them that she just became a citizen, I think they believe that we are married and that is how she got her papers.

Bought some tapes and coffee and will be videotaping the reunion. Adeui is nervous about meeting her brother and sister. She will also meet mom and later dad……..mom she hasn’t’ seen since she was six, and dad since she was one. He is a powerful man and her uncle is the main police chief of the area.

I can’t wait to meet the Dinka and Caleb who will be our guide in Uganda. Aduei has also met a great guy who worked in the area and in Darfur for a relief organization. He is sitting next to her and we talked about Russian literature. Let’s get this show on the road. I’m ready.

Hopefully I will sleep now……ah turbulance….i love turbulance………….

7:30 am Uganda time…just over Ugandan airspace……brushed teeth and feel ready for anything. ….. slept a bit, dreamt a bit……the adventure begins………….

Tuesday July 11, 2006 Ron Boyd’s birthday – must call him….

Yesterday was quite a week or so it seemed…..we got into Entebbe a few hours late because of a delay though it turns out that the Ugandan Presdent was on our plane.

Arrived and bro and sis were not there, just Joseph and Caleb…..Adeui was worried………I am an elder and must sit up front…. Baggage in back of pick up truck and Caleb sits in the back of the truck to protect the luggage. ..finally brother - Marian - and sis reunite and we go into town……and to the Cornernstone for much needed showers. Change money and have coffee and then off to the SPLM offices to get visas for southern Sudan. We go to the SPLM office guided by the Thompson-type high school friend of the brother…..it’s a bit of a rugged place but everyone is friendly, especially the young looking guy in a suit who is not so young and is the boss. We talk and have to come back in a few hours………we come back and me and the boss have some laughs and he supports what I’m doing in southern Sudan. We joke about me getting SPLM –Sudanese People’s Liberation Movement - membership – says if I come three times he’ll give it to me……in the meantime, takes one of my passport photos to remember me and calls me the White Dinka. That shall be my name.

Hired a cab who took us everywhere …went to us embassy to register and get the Sudan warning.

Back to Cornerstone with Caleb Adeui went to visit some family. I was alone with Caleb, Peter and Edward……went to a dark Ugandan restaurant. Sat outside and drank lots of beer and ate amazing food…talked about women and drugs and AIDS and life in general in Uganda. When I say we talked about women, I mean, we’re talking in general about morals and expectations. The Sudanese do not talk openly about sex and relationships. Once again the idea that light skinned women are prettier – like in Rwanda. Talked about how women bleach skin to look prettier…this light/dark skin thing really blows my mind. ….……pretty drunk by the time I got home……restless sleeping till 2 then slept like a babe…..the day before I was nodding off every few minutes struggling to stay awake. Now sitting at café trying to get on the internet, though with no luck…………..need my coffee…………….people are friendly, women have amazing smiles…….though service is slllllllllooooooooooowwwwwww….i want my coffee…………oh yeah, when I hit my head on the short door leaving the SPLM office, I said, “Us tall Dinkas got to be careful – especially the white Dinka. ……….later…

Called Ron Boyd and he was happy. Went to relative of Adeui for lunch and had my first Dinka meal. I felt like an honored guest – shaking lots of hands. The meal was great – women come around with a bowl to wash my hands, then eat with one hand – no silverware……it was amazing……..then got a haircut – not easy finding someone to cut white people hair……….now at café and getting ready for the 4am bus ride to the Sudanese border……oh yeah, also met a Lost Boy who works for the Nile River Institute who is setting up a school in Bor, near where OASIS wants to set up our school. For those who don’t know, OASIS is the Organization for the Advancement of Schools in Sudan. That’s what we’re calling ourselves…..Anyway…….i’m really excited about the project and can’t wait to get it started………..


I love Africa – the pace is great, the people are wonderful…….though the question is how do we improve people’s lives without making them hurried and depressed westerners? There are so many people with no jobs and nothing to do – they hang out with friends and talk and visit. Cell phones exist but are very expensive and only used to set up a time and place to meet. They are incredibly adept at just waiting around. There is no need to always be doing something.

A few of the Sudanese I’ve met here in Uganda would love to finish high school but cannot afford to. High school costs money, which only reaffirms my belief that we must open a free high school for all to attend. It is only through education that southern Sudan will be able to take control of its future. Remember, it is education, will of the people, and leadership which determine the success of a country – not natural resources. The big moral dilemma is how to bring health and medicine without all the negatives of western society? People are dying from malaria and the treatment often costs under ten dollars. But on the other side, they seem happier than most people I know and they seem to have closer friendships. The kids have the most amazing smiles. But this is the same feeling I get whenever I go to a third world country. I wonder what good all our progress has done us in the West. Sure, we live longer and have many opportunities, but are we happier? Do we have more love in our lives? Hmmmm…….

Hopefully camera will be charged – no electricity yesterday and I can send some photos……………

Bloggenstein

It's alive! I think I have this blog thing figured out. Let the trip begin.For those who don't know, i am going to South Sudan to open a school in the town of Maliek - along the Nile River.

The day of the trip

Haven't slept all night and have so much to do today. But the first thing i needed to do was finally set up a blog. I think i've done that.